Four legs joined to a rail frame near the top for the seat, and a lower stretcher frame for rigidity and a footrest, with a plywood seat screwed on last. Every joint here is a square crosscut and a glued, screwed butt joint — no compound angles, no mortises — so the real skill is keeping four legs and eight rails identical, not complex joinery. Built at counter-stool height, it suits a kitchen counter or a workbench equally well.

A Pine and Plywood Counter Stool

Step by step

Cut the four legs to length (610mm) from the 44 x 44mm stock on the miter saw, squaring each end against the fence.
15 min
Cut the four top rails and four stretcher rails to length (232mm) from the 19 x 70mm and 19 x 44mm stock, clamping a stop block to the miter saw fence so all eight come out identical without re-measuring each piece.
20 min
Stand the four legs together and mark which face of each will be outside on its two adjoining edges, so the frame goes together the same way every time.
10 min
On each leg, mark the top rail position flush with the top end, and the stretcher position with its top edge 200mm up from the foot.
10 min
At each marked position, drill and countersink a clearance hole through the leg into where the rail end will sit — two holes per rail end, one above the other.
30 min
Glue and screw the four top rails between the legs, checking the frame is square by measuring both diagonals before the glue sets, then leave it clamped until firm.
30 min
Glue and screw the four stretcher rails between the legs at the marked lower position the same way, checking diagonals again, and leave it clamped.
25 min
Once the glue has fully cured, sand the whole frame through 120 then 180 grit, easing the leg corners and rail edges so nothing catches a hand.
25 min
Cut the plywood seat to 330 x 330mm if it was not already cut to size when bought, and ease the top edge and corners with abrasive paper.
15 min
Centre the seat on the frame with an even 5mm overhang on all four sides, clamp it down, and drill clearance and countersunk pilot holes down through the seat into each top rail.
15 min
Glue the top rail faces lightly, then screw the seat down through the pilot holes — two screws per rail is enough.
10 min
Fill every countersunk screw head with wood filler or a glued pine plug, let it set, then sand flush.
15 min
Apply the finish in thin coats, sanding lightly between coats, and leave it to cure fully before the stool takes any weight.
20 min

Afterwards

Vacuum the bench and the stool rather than blowing dust around — birch plywood is a hardwood face veneer, and hardwood dust is a recognised carcinogen, so keep a dust mask on while sanding it. Let the glued joints sit a full day before the stool takes real weight, and let the finish cure for the time stated on the tin — usually 24 to 48 hours — before anyone sits on it. Check the diagonals are still equal and no joint has opened before loading it.

Questions

Why screw-and-plug joints instead of mortise and tenon?

Square-section legs and rails give enough glue surface that two screws and glue per joint resist racking well for a stool's loads, and it's achievable with a drill rather than chisels or a mortiser. Mortise and tenon is stronger again, but it's a second project once this one works.

Can I change the seat height?

Yes — subtract the seat thickness from the height you want and cut the legs to that length. Keep the stretcher frame's top edge roughly a third of the way up the leg so it still braces the stool and doubles as a footrest.

Does the plywood edge need covering?

Birch-faced ply shows its layers at a cut edge. Easing the edge with abrasive paper and finishing it the same as the faces reads fine on a stool; iron-on edge banding is tidier if you want it, but it isn't required.

Will this stool take outdoor use?

It will if you use an exterior-grade glue and a finish rated for outdoor use, both stated on the tin or bottle. For anything left outdoors permanently, a weather-resistant timber will outlast softwood by years.