A Cedar Adirondack Chair
- Hands on
- 285 min
- Start to finish
- 5 hours
- Level
- moderate
- Makes
- one cedar Adirondack chair, about 20 inches wide at the seat
This is the plain-board version of the classic Adirondack chair: no bandsaw, no wide stock, no curved seat rail. The recline comes entirely from where the two side rails are fixed to the legs — higher at the front than the back — so every long cut in the build is a straight crosscut on ordinary 1x4 and 1x6 cedar. Cedar earns its place here: it resists rot and insects outdoors without any finish, though an oil will hold the colour longer before it silvers to grey. Build the two leg-and-rail sides first and square them up before adding the seat slats, the back, and the arms.
What you need
Step by step
-
Cut the two front legs to 21 inches, the two back legs to 34 inches, and the two side rails to 24 inches, clamping a stop block to the fence for each repeat length.
25 min -
Cut the crest rail and front stretcher to 22 inches, then the six seat slats to 20 inches and five back slats to 22 inches from the remaining stock.
30 min -
Cut the two arms to 27 inches from the 1x6, then knock the front outside corner off each at 45 degrees and round it over with the sander.
20 min -
Sand every cut end and edge before assembly.
15 min -
Clamp a side rail to the inside face of a front leg with its top edge 17 inches up from the bottom of the leg, drill pilot holes, and screw.
20 min -
Clamp the other end of the rail to a back leg with its top edge 13 inches up from the bottom, so the rail runs downhill from front to back, and screw.
20 min -
Build the second leg-and-rail assembly the same way, then stand both up parallel and check they are square to the floor with the combination square.
20 min -
Screw the front stretcher between the two front legs, tight under the side rails, to stop the assembly racking.
15 min -
Screw the six seat slats across the top edges of the side rails, front to back, leaving a pencil-width gap between each.
30 min -
Screw the crest rail across the tops of the two back legs.
15 min -
Space and screw the five back slats to the back legs and the crest rail, keeping the gaps even.
30 min -
Rest an arm on top of each front leg, overhanging the front by about 2 inches, and screw down through the arm into the leg; screw the back end of each arm to the outside face of the matching back leg at the same height.
30 min -
Ease every sharp edge with the sander and check the chair sits flat without rocking.
15 min
Afterwards
Cedar dust is a mild irritant rather than a major hazard, but still wear a mask when sanding and vacuum the bench rather than blowing it into the air. Check every screw head sits flush before the chair is used, and if you've applied a finish, let it cure fully — 24 to 48 hours for most exterior oils — before loading the chair or leaving it out in rain.
Questions
Can I use pine or another softwood instead of cedar?
Yes, but pine will need a film-forming exterior paint or stain to survive outdoors — cedar's natural oils resist rot and insects without any finish at all.
Why is the seat rail mounted higher at the front than the back?
That's what gives the chair its recline. Keep the same two heights on both side assemblies or the seat will sit twisted.
Do the back slats need to be evenly spaced?
Not structurally, but uneven gaps are the first thing anyone notices sitting down. Measure the total width, divide by the number of gaps, and mark each one before driving a screw.
How long before I can sit in it if I finish it?
Follow the cure time on the tin. Most exterior oils need 24 to 48 hours before they'll tolerate weight or weather, longer in cool or damp conditions.